First build + vlog

[ThinBlue]

Looks great but 5 hours with a grinder is more than I have patience for. I would have hauled it off the media-blast shop and happily skipped the sore arms, ringing ears and numb fingers.

Of course, I have gotten wiser as I've gotten older and probably would have been guilty the same at one time or another. It does look good, tho. Keep in mind that it does not need to look showroom quality and the imperfections add character. A good trick when deciding if the work of rewelding and regrinding is worth it is to hit it with a quick coat of black spray paint. It's amazing how imperfections blend away when it is all one color and often I just leave it alone.

Yeah it wasn't the most enjoyable process but patience is one of my most valuable traits. It was decently hard on my out of shape body but truthfully that was a big part of why I kept at it. I need to get in better shape and forcing myself to stick with it was good for getting my body used to doing things again. The worst of it was the tingling hands, but that subsided after 30 minutes so it really wasn't that bad. No where near as bad as when I worked construction and ran a jack hammer for 8 hours straight. No ringing ears for me. I protect those guys pretty well most of the time. I'm in the middle of mixing an EP right now so it's not the time to be cavalier with my head holes. All in all it just soaked up a lot of time and kind of "wasted" a day. You always want to see more done when you have as limited time as I do to work on it.

The character is the main reason I'm not sure if I want to smooth it out or not. There's a fine line between character and ugly though and that's a very subjective thing. Good tip on the black spray paint. I'm not sure exactly how I'm going to finish it yet but putting on a coat of paint will probably help me decide if its on the character or ugly side of the fence.

Hey Dirty I don't think I've ever seen one of your pits. Where could I find your builds?

[Dirtytires]

Glad you survived, now on to more productive work!

I'm not much of a picture-poster. I've got a few pictures out there but never put together a full build thread.

[Olibinoui]

You have a good mental toughness to grind all this time.

The wisdom will be with you next time

[ThinBlue]

It feels like more got done this weekend just because we got it up on the frame and it's starting to look like something. Still several things to tend to though.

[ThinBlue]

What size ball valve would you guys suggest and are there any special considerations I should make when picking one out?

[Big T]

Looks great!! I used a 2'' drain on mine.

[SheffSmoker]

I've used 28mm (1.1 inch) on mine as they are about a fifth of the cost of a 2" and readily available over the counter at hardware stores near me. Never had one block up yet. Only other consideration is either a wheel valve or a 1/4 turn lever, but make sure you have room to turn the lever if the latter.

[Brewmaster]

Looks Great TB! Some solid progress being made and you'll have a lifetime of fun when she's done!

[Olibinoui]

Keep the good work

[ThinBlue]

Has anyone ever applied linseed oil on a cold cooker? Guys do it for cars all the time to retain their vintage patina. Will it work for a cooker or will it start to darken as soon as you heat it up with a cook anyways?

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[Dirtytires]

It always darkened for me. Doesn't seem to last that long on a firebox and only slightly longer on the cook chamber reapplying in needed. Some of the guys here spent a lot of time trying to make it work so hopefully will lend an opinion.

[hogaboomer]

It will darken over time. But if you put it on cold, it will also stay sticky for days, and pick up dust.

[ThinBlue]

That what I figured. Any thoughts on retaining a patina finish? From what I've read the clear coat finishes don't seem to hold up very long at all.

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[Iwishicouldcook41]

I’ve been trying to figure out what some of these bigger builders are using for clears and paints. Big Phil’s/moberg/Backline fab/etc.

They’re def using some kind of spray on high heat finish. If you’re just looking for clear coat. Surely theres some stove paint clear coat? All the different colors may be a different issue.


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[hogaboomer]

I would try the VHT Flameproof clear. I put the black on my last build and the buyer reports that the paint is holding on the firebox. The Rustoleum High Heat I put on the one before that burned right off the firebox when they seasoned the pit.
The VHT has ceramic in it, and has to be heat cured.

[ThinBlue]

I’ve been trying to figure out what some of these bigger builders are using for clears and paints. Big Phil’s/moberg/Backline fab/etc.

They’re def using some kind of spray on high heat finish. If you’re just looking for clear coat. Surely theres some stove paint clear coat? All the different colors may be a different issue.


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I know an advantage some of these builders have over the garage builder is that the access to large ovens where they can properly bake on their finishes. Might be the overall determining factor.

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[ThinBlue]

Good to know. Thanks Hogaboomer!

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[Iwishicouldcook41]

I spoke with one of those guys Via IG direct message. He said he’s using automotive paint for color. And high temp clear that’s about $200/gallon. Most of these guys are understandably pretty vague when it comes to giving out info. He Never mentioned baking. Doesn’t mean he’s not, though. Just lead me down the rabbit hole of searching for high heat clear coats. Most of the stove paints I found were in that $200 ball park he mentioned.


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[ThinBlue]

I spoke with one of those guys Via IG direct message. He said he’s using automotive paint for color. And high temp clear that’s about $200/gallon. Most of these guys are understandably pretty vague when it comes to giving out info. He Never mentioned baking. Doesn’t mean he’s not, though. Just lead me down the rabbit hole of searching for high heat clear coats. Most of the stove paints I found were in that $200 ball park he mentioned.


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I want to say that Frank had mentioned trying one of the silicone based ones and it didn't work out. I'll have to re-review his video of I can figure out which one it was.

Funny thing; I had been searching for high temp clears but as soon as I added the word gallon to that search I got entirely different search results. It's like google said "Oh this guy is serious about this. Ok, I got you."

I noticed that the gallon variety options claim much higher continuous temperature tolerances compared to the spray cans you can get at home improvement stores.

I think I'm going to grab a can of that VHT and run it through the gauntlet before I full commit.

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[Frank_Cox]

Yep, that silicone based stuff is total crap lol.
It’s called thermalux.

The stuff then boys are using is called advantage automotive clear


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[ThinBlue]

Yep, that silicone based stuff is total crap lol.
It’s called thermalux.

The stuff then boys are using is called advantage automotive clear


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Well, that saved me who knows how many hours of searching. Thanks Frank!

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[Iwishicouldcook41]

Yep, that silicone based stuff is total crap lol.
It’s called thermalux.

The stuff then boys are using is called advantage automotive clear


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Thank you, sir. Looks like they have an extensive product list. Any idea which would fit the bill for high heat application? If not, I’ve emailed them asking the same. Will report back when I get an answer


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[ThinBlue]

Yep, that silicone based stuff is total crap lol.
It’s called thermalux.

The stuff then boys are using is called advantage automotive clear


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Thank you, sir. Looks like they have an extensive product list. Any idea which would fit the bill for high heat application? If not, I’ve emailed them asking the same. Will report back when I get an answer


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Thanks. I was going to stop by one of their distributor locations and talk to a rep but I'm not sure when I'll have time to do so.

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[Brewmaster]

Has anyone ever applied linseed oil on a cold cooker? Guys do it for cars all the time to retain their vintage patina. Will it work for a cooker or will it start to darken as soon as you heat it up with a cook anyways?

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Many times! I only use linseed oil on smokers, and I love it. I apply cold so it creeps, then build a fire and run it for an hour or 2, sometimes I use a weedburner to heat the legs and frame for quick-dry, other times I don't bother. If you use the right type of Linseed oil and run the cooker after application you won't have dust-sticking problems. I probably already mentioned this in PMs but search for "polymerized linseed oil" rather than boiled; it's partially polymerized already so it's thicker, dries faster, and is 100% food-grade so it can also be used inside the cooker, or even on cutting boards and so on, oh and there's no self-combustion worries with it either, that's important! Also worth noting, inseed oil will darken over time, but stays translucent and never gets to full coverage like paint so it leaves a pretty cool patina. A coat of linseed is maybe 1/10th as thick as paint if that, it's like seasoning a cast iron pan with oil, which is one big reason why it doesn't last very long, if and when it starts failing on the firebox or anywhere, just pour a bit on a rag and wipe that area during a cook and it's fixed, takes about 10 seconds. A litre of linseed will completely coat a 100 gallon offset about 100 times.

For the rust patina most use salt and vinegar mixed I think, but a more industrial type of strong acid works pretty well. Most use clear, some don't coat it at all, rather re-treat the steel once or twice per year leaving the raw patina. You've seen the photos in my album but here are a few pics in chronological order to get a better idea. 1st pic is after 9 months in process of the build through our humid season and you could totally just leave it like this, then immediately after an acid wash, then about 15 minutes afterward with plenty of rust starting to show, then after 2 coats of linseed, then 5 months later sitting in the sun (also covered in dust - she needs a wash. Cheers brother!

[ThinBlue]

If you use the right type of Linseed oil and run the cooker after application you won't have dust-sticking problems. I probably already mentioned this in PMs but search for "polymerized linseed oil" rather than boiled; it's partially polymerized already so it's thicker, dries faster, and is 100% food-grade so it can also be used inside the cooker, or even on cutting boards and so on, oh and there's no self-combustion worries with it either, that's important!

I don't think we had talked about that. Or if we had, I already forgot. I might have to look into that.

A litre of linseed will completely coat a 100 gallon offset about 100 times.

I wish I would have known that before Monday. Lol I picked up a gallon to play with and bring my fire pit back to life. It's all they had at my store so I'd be stuck with it anyways, but after I finished seasoning up the fire pit I realized I would be passing that gallon on to my grandchildren because I would never reach the bottom of it in my lifetime.